Gaya - Pitrupaksha

10 September 2014 at 16:45
In the last two weeks, seen a couple of advertisements by the Bihar Tourism department asking faithfuls to perform rites to ancestors at Gaya during Pitrupaksha. Today, there was a big advertisement in Times of India about package tours to Gaya during this period.

I cannot say if it is good or bad - the advertisements to visit Gaya for Pitrupaksha for doing pinda daan. Even during annual shradhams for the departed souls Gaya is mentioned, and the akshaya vatam there called out when pinda samarpan is made. So, Gaya and shradham are well known, Brahmins for generations have been going to Gaya from south India to perform the rituals.

Legend has it that an asuran by name Gayasur attained salvation here at Vishnu's feet, and Vishnnupad in Gaya is where one goes to place the Pinda daans, apart from the Phalgu river and the Akshaya Vata.

It is believed Sri Rama himself went there to perfrom Shraddha during Pitrupaksha to Dasaratha.

Despite being a regular traveller, I had no clue how or what of Gaya when I decided to go there - there are just basic facilities some pandits have created there and there are hardly and "good" places to stay or public transport. The normal route for most, who also include Allahabad and Kashi for the rites is to go from Kashi.

We followed the same route though our Pinda Daan was only at Gaya. It was our luck we got introduced the Ganapadigal at Kashi who for three generations has been living in Kashi and helping all those who come from Tamil Nadu perform last rites to their parents, Pinda Daan at Gaya. A kind soul Ganpadigal with a bit of disappointment told us - "Gaya is an important place for Vaishnavites, still you people have not created any facilities there".

It is the Kannada purohits and Karnataka Sangha that mainly facilitates the rites at Gaya. They do not overcharge, they do not demand anything extra and piously do the deed as far as I know.

They explain the whole process in advance and prepare us for the day. Starting at dawn it can go on till 3 pm. There are certain soothing factors about a Gaya Shradham. Women may not be able to do regular Shraadham, but can offer pinda daan for their husbands here. While doing Pinda Daan 40 out of the 60 morsels is reserved for the mother, recollecting the times she would have foregone food during pregnancy, child birth, bringing up children etc., But, one can also do it for other relatives, neighbours, friends etc.,

One look at Gaya, it would look so dull and poor. One would hesitate to eat anywhere outside in Gaya. The temple itself stands strong thanks to the reconstruction by Shirmati Ahilyabhai Holkar, who rebuilt numerous temples across India, including Kashi Vishvanath.  Mornings are very crowded at the temple with everyone rushing to offers Pindaas at the feet of Vishnu. Evenings, when most of the crowds go back, it is a sombre affair...soothing  Vishnu Sahasranama recital happens even as sandal paste is applied to Vishnu Pad. As if to cool him down for taking all the weight of human sins poured on to him the whole morning.

As I said earlier, there are no proper guides, no proper tourist facilities, nor public transport.

One other famous Hindu Pilgrim City neglected like Gaya is Ayodhya. One has to go to Gaya to feel the vibrations of that place and understand what it means. If Kashi teaches you something about death, Gaya perhaps teaches one about salvation.

It is only some foolish religious types visit Ayodhya and Gaya, maybe reason why they are so badly kept, ill developed or even clean.

It is inevitable you would visit Bodh Gaya on the other side - bustling, full of decent looking places to stay, shops, tourists from various countries and all that. Obviously, foreigners coming to that part of town has perhaps created a different treatment in terms of upkeep and facilities.

Will Bihar government's efforts to attract more faithfuls to come to Gaya for Pitrupaksha change anything for the Hindu pilgrims?

Gaya is important for Buddhists, Hindus as well as Jains. The Barabar caves, Pawpuri where Mahavira attained Nirvana, Rajgir and Nalanda so close by all offer an interesting pilgrim/tourist circuit. Not many I know went to any of these places when they went to Gaya. Lack of knowledge, lack of facilities and promotion by Bihar, which decided to stay behind all the developments that were happening in rest of India kept it that way, may be.


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