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“Iska bavishya nahin hai” Siddharamappa Malagi said in a way that both us who were struggling to make a conversation in Hindi could understand. He is very clear that with his generation khun weaving tradition in his family would end and a slow end overall to the tradition of weaving a special choli or blouse fabric in Guleddgud, small town in Bagalkot district of Karnataka, 22 km from the famous Chalukyan capital of Badami. Malagi’s less than modest home in one of the bylanes of the village hosts four pit looms, though only one was running during much of weavers’ siesta that afternoon. The threads on the loom were vibrant green, magenta, yellow, bright and shining unlike the dull façade of the village or the drab, ordinary clothes the weavers themselves wore.  But, Malagi proudly talked about the beauty of the fabric he weaves, the purity of its silk and cotton used, and the natural indigo he used for the base blue that runs in the fabric even as other colours bring the...

The Emerald Road, Less Traveled   It may sound like an oxymoron, but Bhoramdev or Bhoramdeo fits the definition of being a place that is remote, yet accessible. Situated close to the Kanha national park, surrounded by hills and now having its own notified wildlife sanctuary, it is cool, green and absolutely stunning landscape. Hidden in that greenery is this gem of a temple, well proportioned, nagara style dedicated to Shiva as Bhoramdeo. Not much details are available beyond what the couple of inscriptions at the temple have to say about the date of the temple and a probable name of the king who could have built it. There is also speculation if it was a Vishnu temple, or of a local Gond king, or a local deity.  We decided to travel to Chhattisgarh, as it was one of the states not explored, and also because we wanted to go to Bastar. There was no guide at that time to take us to Bastar, and we ladies developed cold feet. Being interested in history and wildlife, ...