Jaina Kanchi

Not till I read Nandita Krishna's book on the paintings of Varadarajar Temple, Kanchipuram did I realize the importanace of the Jain temple at Thiruparuthikundram, a few kilometres away from Kanchipuram, popularly known as Jaina Kanchi. It is mentioned in the book, the restoration of painting at the Jain temple are not up to the mark while comparing with the Varadar temple ones, which are in a state of absolute decay. Only last summer I was thinking of amount people spend on adding unnecessary cement blocks and gold vimanas, but being indifferent to the dull and dark corridor filled with faded paintings around Varadar sannidhi. Therefore, a visit to the Jain temple was a must - to see for oneself how bad the restoration looks, and if one should take any steps to push a few devotees here to take up restoration of paintings. 

Going around anywhere during the festival times becomes tough, especially in the heat. But, this is the only time available to explore and see a few temples nearby. Decided to take a quite trip to first to see Varadar on top of the Ther and then go to Thiruparuthikundram. After a 45 minutes in the queue and darshan of Varadar and a few quick glances around the erotic sculptures on the wooden chariot (I couldn't spend much time concentrating on any one, for they were more erotic than one encountered at Bhoramdeo and also not as fine a work as that) I hailed an autorickshaw. Asked the driver to take me to Pillaiyar palayam Jain temple and luckily he was aware of the palce. 

In less than 15 minutes I was in Thiruparuthikundram - being a Jain temple I was aware it may not be open after sunset. But, even a little before 5 pm, it was shut and there were no sign of any visitors. I was also confused by the look of the temple as there was nothing from a first glimpse to suggest it being any different from a Shiva temple.

                                                                                         

For a place, that has had illustrious past, the presence is sad. The temple remains under lock & key for most part of the day and by 5 pm, it is shut.I went around looking for a clue as to how to enter the temple and a lady nearby said, knock at the door of house opposite temple entrance, and you would find the caretaker. I did so and an old lady, but fit and active came out, but was reluctant to engage with me. I didn't give up being at my persuasive best. She said it is soon going to be 5 so be quick. Fine, I would go by the unwritten rule of  5, though I know most ASI sites are allowed to be open till sunset. Then, came the shocker. No, you are not allowed to photograph, she told me. I argued with her that ASI doesn't prohibit pictures inside even Ajanta or Ellora and except for the Dilwara temples, I have photographed inside all Jain temples. Then she got a little curious about the lone woman visitor. I explained to her as to why I am visiting the place. I come from Varadar sannidhi street, a journalist and inspired by the comparison Nandita Krishna draws in her book about the dull, unrestored murals of Varadar temple and the restoration work at this particular temple. I was honestly interested in the comparison. After looking at the murals here can't say if I want Varadar murals to be like what they are now. I find the whole main structure of Varadar koil in neglect and because of the dull and decaying murals and the badly lit prakara inappropriate for the majesty it holds and to the prominence and beauty of the deities who reside there. 

Sometime we bond with strangers unknowingly. That is what happened soon. The evening turned pleasant as the lady (I never asked for her name, wasn't sure she would like it) opened up and was willing to have a short conversation. She appeared sad, she poured her grief out to me in a couple of sentences. She, her elder sister and her brother are the last surviving members of the family who have been the hereditary custodians of the temple for generations. The brother is not even in a position to conduct pujas and so they summon a priest of their order, paying him a fee to come from Kanchipuram to perform pujas. Theirs is the last surviving Tamil Jaina family in the Jaina Kanchi. She said her sister received a Rs.1000 or so old age pension and there was no other formal earning for the family. We don't ask the visitors for any money and don't think I am holding you back from photographing for money. Yes, she didn't ask for money and showed me one or two main paintings to photograph. She told me sweetly, we are also known as "Jaina Brahmanas", probably to classify them as a non-meat eating class. I asked her if Marwari and other non-Tamil Jains patronised the temple or visit it often. She said not many, though a few do. She said it was ASI and the state government which spent money on restoration and Kumbabhishekam. I told her Jains as a community are very strong, powerful say in states like Gujarat and Rajasthan and all. She was pleased to hear that and asked me Narendra Modi is a Jain or is he a Brahmin as some say. I tried explaining Narendra Modi's caste to her from all the knowledge gathered from Aakar Patel's incisve articles. She seemed fine and didn't probe further. I bowed before the main deities in the temple, made my offering at the sanctum and packed up. She asked me to come some other day in the morning so that she can show me around peacefully. I said yes, I will come back. 

P.S.But, didn't do it. The heat was a deterrent. Probably when I go there in the winter I will pay a visit. She told me to go to Thirumalai, another Jain temple not very far and should follow it up next time.  

"Thiruparuthikundram also called Jaina Kanchi is a well known shrine for Jains. There are two temples in the campus, one for Vardhamana and Pushpatantar and another for Padmaprabha and Vasupujya with seperate sanctum sanctorums. Ardhamandapa and Mukamandapa for each. Parsuvanathar and Dharmadevi have also separate sannadhis. The Sangeetha Mandapa was built by Irugappa, The minister of King Bukka during 1387 A.D. Paintings found in the ceiling of mandapa date back to the 17th Century A.D."

Some information, I could gather from the internet and looking forward to a day when I can lay my hands on this book. 

" Tiruparuthukundram and its Temples " written by Thiru T.N.Ramachandran, Former Director General of A.S.I. published in 1934 by then Madras Museum, now reprint available in Chennai Museum at a cost of Rs.115 in which the details of Epigraphy, Paintings, the period of structure, Jaina Cosmology, Times etc.