Two days in Malaysia

Malaccan moment


The perfect ‘Discovery’ moment arrived soon after I landed in Melaka. The beautiful little, post-colonial city dotted with Churches, museum, an old city street with temples of all kind and Mosques, is a real delight. Having just few hours in hand to go around and explore the city, I found the cycle rickshaws, with a cover, floral decoration and even a Bhaja (music system) an ideal way to get my orientation. It is a bit steep at MR 40 for an hour – but I was lured in by the offer to play Hindi songs. From ‘kuch kuch hota hai’ to ‘sapney’ I did get a taste of Indian music and the rickshaw puller’s love of Bollywood and his favourite star Shah Rukh Khan. There I go on the streets of Melaka humming ‘vennilave vennilave…’.

The Portuguese fort, l’amosa stands in ruins, amidst well manicured lawns and witnessing the retail revolution spring up in front – the local store of global chain Carrefour stands tall in front of the amosa. A few furlongs away from amosa stands the beautiful palace of sultan…all in wood. There is a bit of history in every stone on that street. As you turn back from the street, when you retreat from the palace, you see the street lined up with endless museums starting from beauty museum to the Islamic museum to the stately, Stadhuys museum which narrates the history of Melaka in paintings, illustrations and artifacts dating from 15th century to the independent Malaysia. It was the Malaccan king Parameshwara whose marriage to Queen of Pasai which turned Malay kingdom Islamic.

The red coloured Stadhuys and the Christ church are the centre of the Malaccan universe as far as I know. From the Melaka Central I managed to board a local bus only by saying I want to go the Christ Church. Under the afternoon sun, you can just sit around there looking at vendors selling assorted stuff, after having had a look at the church and doing the rounds of Stadhuys. Believe me, there is no litter, no gutter, and no noisy vendors, nothing that could make things unpleasant for the visitor. The museum was air cooled, did not stink of urine and on the other hand offered a clean toilet, with water, toilet paper etc.

Melaka is supposed to the culinary capital of Malaysia. But being vegetarian, that was one part of Melaka I had to skip. The only truly Malaccan stuff I encountered was the pav-ice cream. Can I substitute the hot vada with spicy chutney I am used to inside the pav in Mumbai to an ice-cream. The ice cream man insisted it is very tasty. I was not ready for such a challenge to my palate. I settled for a Durian flavoured ice cream on a stick. And then I headed looking for a Tamil restaurant, and found Selvam. I tried to retreat when I saw tandoor grilling chicken. The friendly manager from Tirunelveli, insisted that there is vegetarian food and I should get in. Having had no breakfast and no lunch, thanks to the traffic jam on the express way which delayed my arrival at Melaka I settled down – for a rava dosa and bru coffee. The coffee to suite the taste of a Madrasi made my day.

Melaka would hardly find a place in the regular tourist agenda as it has little to offer in terms of activity and attractions like Genting and Langkawai. But if are you in Kuala Lumpur and have a day to spare, Melaka is an ideal place to go on a day trip.

For someone feasting on historical locations, Melaka was a perfect fit. Three hours away from Kuala Lumpur well connected by buses and taxis, Melaka is a lovely get away. Travelers from Singapore can also get in through the Johor Bahru road crossing. I was not prepared for what Melaka had to offer except for a cursory knowledge that it was one city in Malaysia that offered some history. But now I would recommend it to anyone who wants to have a complete view of Malaysia. There is lot more to do in Melaka for a regular visitor and my visit was partial to the history of Melaka. It reminded me of Puduchery (Pondichery), but our former French colony has very little to offer in terms of recollecting history or cleanliness.