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“Iska bavishya nahin hai” Siddharamappa Malagi said in a way that both us who were struggling to make a conversation in Hindi could understand. He is very clear that with his generation khun weaving tradition in his family would end and a slow end overall to the tradition of weaving a special choli or blouse fabric in Guleddgud, small town in Bagalkot district of Karnataka, 22 km from the famous Chalukyan capital of Badami. Malagi’s less than modest home in one of the bylanes of the village hosts four pit looms, though only one was running during much of weavers’ siesta that afternoon. The threads on the loom were vibrant green, magenta, yellow, bright and shining unlike the dull façade of the village or the drab, ordinary clothes the weavers themselves wore.  But, Malagi proudly talked about the beauty of the fabric he weaves, the purity of its silk and cotton used, and the natural indigo he used for the base blue that runs in the fabric even as other colours bring the...

Sources of Ancient Indian Culture in Kalidasa’s works     “Every work of his is a veritable testament of the best in the genius and culture of ancient India”             ‘ Ancient India – History and Culture’ B.G.Gokhale This is part of a small, juvenile exercise I had done while trying to understand the ancient Indian culture through Kalidasa. Since I can in no way better the two books on the "Idea of India", Bhagwat Saran Upadhyaya's 'India in Kalidasa' and C.Rajendran's 'Narrating the Nation', I will leave you with just an introduction that can serve as an inspiration to read both the books. Both are available online, and provide such fascinating insights into what Kalidasa saw, the idea of Bharata.  This is especially for those who have never formally studied Kalidasa. Scholars kindly excuse. Bharat of Kalidasa “Looking at the chart of India as furnished by Kalidasa, we can see the country divided into three ...

I wrote this in 2008 after a solo trip across Indonesia via Malaysia, and the edited version was published in the Hindustan Times. Never before I had taken leave for so long, and also a trip that extended to nine days. That was triggered by a new boss, and looking back I am thankful to him for being what he was in our first interaction. The trip to Indonesia holds a special place in my travels, the one I started on an impulse, regretting at times the money I was spending and at times feeling guilty about not taking the family along. My friend, Anu was as usual my partner in crime, arranging all that I needed to complete the tour and engaging in long distance conversation from China, when I felt little unsafe at Jogja. I have added a lot more photos here from Prambanan than what I could have in the print article. It was written 12 years ago, didn't want to go back and recreate a new write up today, but though I will just preserve the old one as it hasn't been available on...

The Emerald Road, Less Traveled   It may sound like an oxymoron, but Bhoramdev or Bhoramdeo fits the definition of being a place that is remote, yet accessible. Situated close to the Kanha national park, surrounded by hills and now having its own notified wildlife sanctuary, it is cool, green and absolutely stunning landscape. Hidden in that greenery is this gem of a temple, well proportioned, nagara style dedicated to Shiva as Bhoramdeo. Not much details are available beyond what the couple of inscriptions at the temple have to say about the date of the temple and a probable name of the king who could have built it. There is also speculation if it was a Vishnu temple, or of a local Gond king, or a local deity.  We decided to travel to Chhattisgarh, as it was one of the states not explored, and also because we wanted to go to Bastar. There was no guide at that time to take us to Bastar, and we ladies developed cold feet. Being interested in history and wildlife, ...